Chopard's solid gold Bijoux collection from Eastern States Eyewear. Suggested retails range from $5,000 to $35,000.

When you consider the booming economy and the fact that dot.com millionaires are popping up everywhere, it's no surprise the luxury goods market has taken off like a hot tech stock. More people than ever feel they deserve to taste, touch, wear, and experience the very best that's out there. And eyewear is no exception.

Yet dispensing luxury eyewear is not simply a matter of buying a few high-end lines and expecting them to blow out the door. Those who have been successful in this niche market all agree on one thing: Image is everything.

"In order to gain credibility in the high-end market you have to look the part," maintains Barry Foss, RDO, who has been a practicing optician for 31 years and opened a high-end branch, Facial Attire, 15 years ago in Leominster, Mass. "You have to project an image as a taste maker, and your dispensary must look upscale." That's why the first thing Foss did was hire an interior designer who decorated a private viewing room replete with halogen track lighting, a Persian rug, and gold finish on the walls.

Since the space is located in an office building, he contacted some of his established customers who are doctors, lawyers, and business owners and invited them to make an appointment to view his top-of-the line product. "I carry whatever's VIP-appropriate, and often that's eyewear designed in Germany," says Foss. "Many men associate the eyewear with a premium automobile-like a Mercedes Benz."

Foss carries around 70 frames that wholesale from $300 to $500. "When I tell a customer the price for a frame is $950, I say it with a sound mind and clear conscience because I know it's superior in style, lens technology, and durability." But Foss also warns, "the most expensive frame isn't necessarily the best. You never want to compromise sight for money."

Yet money is why many opticians have expanded into the luxury market-to offset shrinking margins brought on by managed care. Patricia Tolar, LDO, consultant and owner of University Opticians in Chapel Hill, N.C., recently conducted a seminar entitled "Dispensing Luxury Eyewear" at the Opticians Association of America convention in New Orleans. She says, "When you carry exclusive product, you're implying to the community that you're the best in town. And that gives your clients confidence in your ability to help them choose eyewear that's truly an investment."

Cartier's platinum finish eyewear. Suggested retail is $560.

Make buying an experience

But before they choose the eyewear, they have to be convinced it's worth the investment. And it all starts with the presentation. "First impressions count. So we keep our high-end eyewear made of gold and precious stones in a jewelry case and present it in a velvet tray, the same way jewelers present product," says Tolar. "The frames should be spotless. That's why we often handle them with gloves. And always replace each frame after showing."

Since Foss showcases his high-end product in a private office, he enhances the buying experience by offering clients something to drink, playing relaxing music, and adjusting the lighting to an ambient glow. "The experience of selecting a luxury item is just as important as obtaining it," Foss points out. "You want to make it memorable. Because if they enjoyed the exceptional service, there's a good chance they'll want to come back and experience it again. What's more, your level of service will be what distinguishes your dispensary from the competition."

Tolar adds that dispensers must convey to the customer that they deserve the very best because they're worth it. "If you have an exclusive on a collection, you can point out that the customer won't see 10 other women wearing the same frame. Appeal to their sense of status. Always show them luxury's elite properties: Quality, style, durability, and exclusivity."

Show and tell

	Madison Spirit from L'Amy's Chaumet Collection which has a suggested retail of $850.

Of course, you should always start by showing your best first. "Present them the top of the line for $1,000. That way, if you must come down, a $350 frame will seem like a bargain," says Tolar. "Selling luxury eyewear means building a case on why they should spend several hundred dollars on eyewear. So you must know every single feature and benefit of that frame. What are the base metals and what makes the combination of metals so rare? If the frames feature 10 microns of 22-karat gold, remember to point out that 22-karat gold is 92 percent pure gold. Is the hinge patented? If so, what makes it so revolutionary?

What's the quality of the gemstones in the eyewear? Is there a warranty to get them replaced if they fall out? The customer deserves to know every single detail about why this eyewear is so special." Tolar also says that if you're selling several lines of luxury eyewear, be prepared to compare and contrast the lines.

Finally, she advises dispensers to utilize whatever props are available from the manufacturer to reinforce the line's luxury image. If it's a licensed line, place the designer's jewelry, scarves, or fragrance in the window along with the eyewear to convey a strong brand message.

"The bottom line is you want your clients to trust that you will help them pick out a piece of eyewear that is truly special," says Foss of Facial Attire. "And if you learn to do that well, you'll be richly rewarded." He concludes: "My dispensary that handles managed care pays the light bill for my business. It's the luxury part of my operation that pays me." EB

Luxury Redefined By Marian Salzman

The luxury goods market is expected to reach $58 billion worldwide by the end of the year. And while business analysts are confident that the market for luxury goods will continue to grow, the very definition of luxury is changing. Today, there are two different forms of luxury: Elite luxury consumption and popular luxury consumption. This two-fold definition has come about because of the rising disposable incomes among the upper middle class. Elite luxury goods are defined as goods that are truly limited in supply because of the rarity of materials used or the time-consuming labor it requires to produce them. A Daytona Rolex watch would fit into this category. Popular luxury is best exemplified by a product that represents the best in technical advancement-a Nokia cellphone is a good example. Manufacturers of popular luxury goods often imitate the elements of elite luxury consumption to give their products a veneer of prestige. The way they do this is by creating the illusion of scarcity through limited editions of a mass-produced item. Then there's the high-tech handle of promoting luxury. Cadillac, for instance, recently introduced a nighttime vision system in its Deville car. It goes to show that in an uncertain world, improved functionality and safety may be the ultimate luxuries. Still, one cannot underestimate the intangible aspect of luxury. Hence the growing appeal for the luxury of experience. To an increasing extent, memories and conversation wealth are becoming coveted luxuries. After all, by definition, personal experience cannot be mass produced. Each one is individual and it is in that individuality that the value lies. Sellers of luxury experiences-from private lessons with a world class chef to a week spent in solitude on a privately-owned island-offer the wealthy an opportunity to set themselves off from the masses and assert themselves as different. Luxury is also about self-indulgence. It's about the hedonistic scoop of Godiva ice cream, the softness of a cashmere pashmina shawl, the comfort of sitting in a soft leather seat behind the wheel of a sleek sports car. That's why consumers are helping to re-conceive luxury itself as a means of pampering their bodies and nourishing their souls. Says George Rosenbaum of American Demographics; "Today there's very little agreement about what constitutes luxury. But it's likely to involve comfort, pleasure, health, youthfulness, and savings of time." And since schedules have become increasingly hectic, look for time to become the ultimate luxury. Month-long vacations, leaves of absence, sabbaticals, and early retirement will emerge as the greatest status symbols among professionals. As stock market gains swell the ranks of millionaires, look for new products and services to emerge that work to reestablish a sense of elitism among the ultra-rich. Today's ultimate low-key status symbol may be the American Express Centurian card, or the black Ammex, which comes in a black velvet box accompanied by a security guard. It provides access to fully booked restaurants and over-booked flights. Requiring an annual income of $225,000, it's currently only available in the United Kingdom, but there are plans to distribute it throughout the world. Don't bother applying for it though-you have to be invited. Marian Salzman is the founding worldwide director of Young & Rubican Inc.'s Brand Futures Group, which is an intelligence unit specializing in interpreting trends in consumer behavior for clients such as Levi's, Reebok, Nike, and Kodak. Neostyle's Mozart style has a suggested retail of $500. Tips for Selling Luxury Eyewear Present an upscale image. From both your dispensary and sales staff. Make buying an experience. Present eyewear like jewelry. Offer your customers something to drink. Play relaxing music in a serene environment. Show your best first. Once they see $1,000 frames, $500 frames seem like a bargain. Know features and benefits cold. Customers need to be shown what makes the product special to justify the cost. Merchandise the eyewear with high-end props. Use high-end jewelry, scarves and other accessories that reinforce the eyewear's luxury image.