Fix and Fit
Cable Temple Conversions
By Alex Yoho, ABOM

You're faced with a frustrated parent and a little guy who looks over his glasses when they slip down on his face.

What can you do? Here are some tips for converting temples to cables.

1. Determine the temple length. The first step is to decide how long to make the temples. Bend the skull temple like a cable and make sure that the top bend is contacting the back of the ear.

Remember that a skull temple is not meant to be fit directly against the back of the ear, so don't assume that it's there now. A good riding bow-type fit is perfect, but the only thing you need to get close to the ear is the top bend.

Most suppliers have a variety of sizes and colors in cable tips, such as these from Hilco

2. Select a temple tip. With the top bend against the ear, it's time to select the proper size temple tip. Most suppliers have several sizes available, and it's a good idea to have a couple pairs of each size in your favorite brand on hand. For a good snug fit on the temple core, select a tip with a smaller hole than the wire core.

3. Select the right cutters. Save your finer cutters for cutting rimless screws and string. For cutting temples, select a heavy-duty pair of cutters. Cutters that are designed for this use have v-shaped cutting edges that don't get dinged up after a few cuts--which is what can happen with flush-type cutters.

If temples are hard to cut, try compound-action style cutters. These will provide more leverage.

4. Cut the temple. This is the most important step because cutting the temple off enough to add a cable tip will ruin it for anything else. To begin, align the top bend of the cable with the top bend of the temple. Note where the end of the cable with the hole rests on the core of the temple, but do NOT cut it where it ends. Instead, just pinch the temple so the thumbnail rests at the spot that the cable ends.

Keep about 10 millimeters of the temple core to slide into the cable end--set the cable end aside and, measuring from your thumbnail, add 10 millimeters. That is where to cut the temple. If the frame is new, save the old temple tips for later use. If they are unusable, save time by cutting right through--tip and all.

5. Deburr the cut end. Now that the temple is cut to length, deburr the cut end. Use a metal file, taking long strokes while rolling the wrist. Sharpen it almost, but not completely, to a point.

For plastic temples, cut 10 millimeters of the plastic without cutting the metal core. Use a sharper, finer cutter and make a cut almost 10 millimeters back from the gross cut through the plastic. Once the plastic is cut, it should slip off the core. Then smooth the rough plastic. A diamond nail file does the job well.

6. Heat and slide. The last step is to heat the cable end and then slide it onto the metal core. When heating the cable end, pull the end to be heated through the pan backwards so nothing gets in the hole. Warm the tip for about 15 to 25 seconds. It is also helpful to heat up the metal core unless the temple is a plastic one. Consider holding the temple tip in a towel to avoid burning your fingers.

As you slide the tip on, be sure the frame is not upside down relative to the tip. Also, angle the tip inward slightly so that it will lay close to the head behind the ear.

To put the finished product on the child, hold the cable ends in hand and quickly wrap them around the ears. With some kids, you may only get one try. So make it count!

Questions and comments may be addressed to the author at ayoho@cox.net.