Luxury Redefined
An economy-busting guide to creating first-class service for luxury eyewear sales—and maintaining this business
By Erinn Morgan
Illustration by Michael Trinse
For the past several years, the luxury sector has grown faster than most other areas at retail. Due to the current economic turmoil, those days may just be gone—for now. "The story is different today," says Richard Baker, CEO of the Luxury Marketing Council in Dallas-Fort Worth.
Baker does note that the mega-wealthy are still spending. "Really high-end sales of things like jets are still up," he says. But, in general, sales of high-end fashion items are waning.
"The consumer's confidence continues to decline in freefall. Luxury consumers are still indulging in their favorite categories, but they are being more selective—they're not buying the suit and the dress and the bag and the shoes," says Pam Danziger, president of Unity Marketing, which specializes in consumer insights for luxury marketers. "They are just investing in one of those. The simple fact is that nobody needs any of these luxury indulgences anyway, so it's easy to cut back."
Eyecare professionals concur. "There is no question that things are different," says David Tom, manager/optician at Urban Eyes in San Francisco. "People are a lot more cautious and some are holding off on buying a pair of eyeglasses, especially if their prescription has not changed."
To thrive in the current economic environment, optical retailers focusing on luxury eyewear can benefit from sharpening their customer service skills using the following tips.
1. CONCENTRATE ON YOUR CURRENT CUSTOMER BASE
"Luxury retailers should focus more of their resources on their current best customers rather than try to attract new customers," says Baker.
Since this group is your most likely source of sales today, focus your personalized service efforts (including marketing and in-store service) on them.
"We're surviving on our repeat business with good clients," says Eddy Mamelok, owner of Greenwich, Conn.-based 20/20 Optical. "People that have money still have money, so it's also important to keep your inventory up-to-date."
| Become a Personal SHOPPER |
|---|
| Specialized, personal service is a key ingredient in the luxury eyewear sale today. "There is a tremendous value for personal shopping experience in this environment," says luxury expert Pam Danziger. What are the steps to creating a professional personal shopping environment? ■ MAKE AN APPOINTMENT: Create a business card and even a well-designed sign that touts the availability of this unique eyewear service. Focus on the fact that eyewear is a custom item that can benefit from professional, personalized selection and fitting assistance. Request that customers make an appointment for this free service. "The customer that has this personal shopping experience is much more apt to go back to that person again," says Danziger. "That loyalty is worth a tremendous amount in today's market." ■ SET ASIDE A PERSONAL SHOPPING SPACE: "One characteristic in department stores is that personal shoppers have personal offices," Danziger notes. "Set a place aside in your store that is more private." ■ TALK IN ADVANCE: Once you understand what the customer is interested in, you can pull styles to have ready to show when they come in. Preparedness could increase the likelihood of a sale. ■ BE PROFESSIONAL: Hone in on your most professional nature when delivering the personal shopping experience. "Be prepared with color charts and face shape information," says Danziger. "And, have a multitude of mirrors available." Make sure you offer elegant tabletop mirrors as well as full-length mirrors. Danziger says that customers want to get their overall full body image with eyewear as well. ■ LEARN FROM EXPERIENCE: Head to a department store and sign up for a personal shopping appointment. Most of these are complimentary services. Also, Danziger points to the personal service provided at first-class spas. "It's easy to translate this to the eyewear environment," she says. "What will justify a $500 frame, rather than the $99 frame you can get at Wal-Mart? You really need to up the ante and provide that service to luxury customers." |
2. STAY CLOSE TO CUSTOMERS
The current economic climate has prompted some luxury retailers to reach out to their customer base with unique, value-added events.
"We're seeing luxury merchants trying to stay close to their customers by holding smaller, more intimate events with them so they have some type of direct contact," says Baker. "These are value-added events like bringing in an author or expert to speak about topics relevant to the times. Provide some type of information and don't be seen as just trying to sell to them directly. If it's held in your store, the customer is still exposed to your merchandise."
3. SELL THE STEAK
Today, the luxury eyewear shopper has a variety of optical retailers from which to choose. They also have the opportunity to trade down from luxury brands to the next level.
As such, Danziger says it's important for opticians and salespeople to sell the real substantive value of the frames they offer.
"We've been selling the sizzle for so long, but now we have to go back to selling the steak. Pump up the value of the frames you're selling and really explain why this or that brand or product is so much better than any other. The fact that style makes it luxury isn't as important anymore," she says.
Eyetique in Pittsburgh maintains a high-end look
| Make It Experiential |
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| Pittsburgh-based Eyetique serves up a luxury experience by appealing to all the senses. "If you can capitalize on five senses, you are rock solid," says vice president Brad Childs. Here's how: ■ SIGHT: "When customers walk in they see clean cases and a fashionable staff," he says. ■ SOUND: Music is a must at Eyetique. "Thursday nights we get a student crowd so we play Top 40 and we pump it—it's loud. If we have an older crowd, we put on some jazz," says Childs, who also notes he doesn't let his staff choose the music. ■ SMELL: "When they walk in the door, do luxury customers want to be hit with the smell of high-index lenses being cut or the bleach from the cleaning room?" he asks. Instead, customers' olfactory experiences at Eyetique involve freshly brewed coffee and fresh flowers. ■ TASTE: Childs says Eyetique spends $400 per store per month in candy that goes into a beautiful hand-blown glass bowl. "Give them a cup of coffee and some candy and it keeps customers there longer and you are buying more time. It's all about the experience." ■ TOUCH: All product cases remain unlocked at Eyetique. "We want them to touch the product," says Childs, who minimizes theft by ensuring a salesperson works with each client. |
4. GO THE EXTRA MILE
"When people come in you have to gave them 110 percent," says Mamelok. "I have delivered glasses at 11:30 p.m., opened on a Sunday for a good client, and extended our hours for appointments if necessary. We also visit nursing homes and deliver glasses to our senior citizens that can't get out. You kind of have go out of the box."
Urban Eyes' Tom finds success in remembering customers' names. "It makes people feel special and you know you're not just perceiving them as a dollar sign or a number."
5. LOOK THE PART
The luxury consumer has an expectation when they walk into your store.
"Make sure the store and the merchandise look the part. Keep it clean, organized, elegant," says Ed Beiner, owner of the high-end Edward Beiner optical chain in Miami.
It's also critical that employees are dressed stylishly and wear the latest eyewear. "When you're selling $500 to $1,500 frames, you better be dressed the part," says Brad Childs, vice president of the high-end Eyetique chain in Pittsburgh. "You want your employees to look well-tailored and to wear the funkier glasses."
6. FOLLOW UP POLITELY
A simple phone call or email to gauge satisfaction is excellent follow-up with the luxury customer.
At Eyetopian, a chain of three luxury opticals in southwest Florida, owner Craig Chasnov sends out a follow-up survey via email. "We typically only get the complaints back, but this gives us a chance to correct any problems and keep the customer happy," he says. EB
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