Right for Rimless
What lenses work best for rimless eyewear? Dispensers share their thoughts on the fittest
options for these fashionable frames
By Erinn Morgan
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Rimless frames with or without clips are on the rise. Shown, DT Magnetics from Altair Eyewear |
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Since the rimless fashion revolution began a few seasons ago, dispensers, labs, and lens manufacturers have been searching for the right lens product to hold up to the rigors of this delicate frame. New lens technology has virtually made cracking and breaking in drill mounts a thing of the past.
Today, the popular choices include polycarbonate, Trivex, and high-index options such as 1.67. But the preferences are personal. Dispensers have a variety of reasons for choosing different types of lenses for their rimless orders. But most say that those customers investing in a rimless frame will be receptive to the better lens options.
"If your patients buy nice, fashionable, high-end frames and you talk to them about safety, they will want the best lenses they can get in there," says Lonnie Burrow, licensed optician and owner of Burrow Optical in Little Rock, Ark.
RIMLESS ROAR
There is no doubt about it--rimless eyewear is coming on strong in the optical market. "We are doing a lot of them lately--they represent at least 30 percent of our total frame sales," says Cathy Schmudd, optician and assistant manager at Absolute Vision Care in Chicago. "People want something you don't see, something that is very lightweight."
Burrow Optical's Burrow agrees, "We do a tremendous amount of sales in rimless styles, especially in the high-end frames. For the past two years, the percentage of rimless sales compared to full metals or plastics has probably doubled or tripled. We now sell about one-third rimless eyewear." Part of his success, he observes, comes from the fact that his dispensers are wearing rimless eyewear and believe in its benefits. "We have four dispensers here, and three wear rimless full time," he says.
LENS CHOICES
The growth of this frame style has dispensers looking at the options for appropriate lenses. There is not one resounding choice espoused by eyecare professionals. Instead, there are a few options that are viable.
"We use polycarbonate," says Dave Ziegler, OD, of Drs. Ziegler and Leffingwell Eyecare in Milwaukee, Wisc. "It is a poly material that can be used in any kind of frame, but that's the one we use for rimless. It's safe and it doesn't break. Plus, it's very lightweight. It helps a lot if your lens and frame combined are as light as possible."
For higher prescriptions, Ziegler also uses high index lenses. "Even the 1.67 material drills better for this patient, but they do have a higher cost. The benefit is that they are slightly thinner in higher prescriptions." Still, Ziegler observes that polycarbonate can be ground to a 1.0 center thickness the majority of the time.
Absolute Vision Care in Chicago also uses polycarbonate for rimless eyewear. "The price add-on is not that much," says Schmudd. "It is only $29. Who wouldn't pay that much to have the glasses they want?"
Another lens option that is widely lauded is Trivex. "The number-one material we put in is Trivex," says Burrow. "We have not had one of them break out."
He also notes that his dispensary will use polycarbonate and high index lenses if the patient's prescription is not available in Trivex. "Sometimes people want a flattop bifocal with photochromics in Trivex and it is not available, so we have to go to a poly or one of the new thin high index lenses," he says.
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Rimless eyewear works well with a variety of lens materials, ranging from polycarbonate and high index to the new Trivex lenses. Shown clockwise from top left, Marc Ecko Scopes style Ecko 5038 from Viva International Group; Revolution Airs frames from Revolution Eyewear; and Chanel style 1501 from Luxottica |
DUTY TO WARN
Many dispensers say that the lens choice in a rimless frame falls into the duty to warn area. "It does have to do with duty to warn, and we explain that to our patients," says Burrow.
At Drs. Ziegler and Leffingwell Eyecare, rimless eyewear sales have increased so much that the duty to warn issue has taken a front seat in lens sales for this frame style. "If you are looking at it as a duty-to-warn issue, then poly [or Trivex] is the way to go," says Ziegler. "It simplifies our lens selection process."
No matter how you present the multitude of lens options for rimless eyewear to customers, it is likely they will appreciate the information on choices. With rimless eyewear growing in popularity at a fantastic rate, there is little doubt that lens choices for drill mounts will continue to be the focus of the sale.
Clear on Coatings |
The importance of lens coatings such as anti-reflective and scratch-resistant coatings is raised a notch when dealing with rimless eyewear. Since the lenses are so exposed in this frame style, glare can take over the look of the frame and scratching can occur more easily. Most dispensers agree that AR is a must. "I think it's very important," says Lonnie Burrow, optician and owner of Burrow Optical in Little Rock, Ark. "Without an AR coating, rimless eyewear can have more glare problems than if there was a full frame going around the outside of the lens." As a result, he says that about 90 percent of what they sell has AR. Anti-reflective coatings are also very important in rimless frames from a cosmetic standpoint. "It makes the lenses disappear," says Cathy Schmudd, optician and assistant manager of Absolute Vision Care in Chicago. "And cosmetically it looks fantastic. Plus you get crisper, clearer vision, and the lens edges are clear." When it comes to scratch-resistant coating, eyecare professionals say this is an important safety aspect, but is often inherent in the lenses already. "All of our PALs and high index lenses have a factory scratch coating included," says Burrow. "Our non-glare coatings also have a scratch-resistant coating and a warranty for a year--but if you use a high-quality AR, it usually stretches the scratch-resistant warranty to two years. Scratch and UV coatings are never add-ons because they are always included in the high-end lens package." Burrow says he also discusses optional fashion tints and photochromic options with customers. "We do a lot of fashion tints and photochromics. Fashion tints in rimless frames are getting more popular again. And our photochromics sales are also growing in the rimless field."
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Tips for working with rimless |
Rimless eyewear styles are more popular than ever. But this popular design brings with it unique challenges when it comes to fitting the eyewear, edging and mounting the lenses, and fixing the frames. Here are a few general tips: Not too tight. It's not healthy for a drilled rimless mounting to be too tight. Usually, you can see a slight pressure distortion near the lens screws. Lots of distortion means lots of pressure and an increased potential for breakage. Watch the distance. It is important that the holes and slots are exactly the right distance apart. Many labs have abandoned hand drilling for computer-aided drilling and slotting machines. These not only reduce the tightness needed for a poorly drilled mount, but also eliminate problems caused when lenses are not exactly bookmatched. Smooth the edges. Any sharp edges on the lens should be smoothed, especially where there is pressure. This can mean not only the "pin" bevel, but also chamfering the edges of holes and notches. If you have a hole with a rough edge, it can be easily smoothed with a round diamond burr that is at least twice the diameter of the hole. Slot edges can be knocked off with a diamond rat-tail file. --Alex Yoho, ABOM |