Frosty Looks
The Coolest Sunwear Trends for Spring
By Marcy Bruch
Photography by Rick Guidotti
Models: Kate Farrington, Laura Aisling Miller
Makeup: Joseph Boggess for Halley Resources
Hair: Livio Angileri for Halley Resources
Stylist: Denise Grieco for Halley Resources

With 2003's less-than-impressive sunwear sales finally behind, it's time to clear the slate and focus on what key looks will fuel consumers' desire for new shades going forward. One way to predict the future is by examining the past. That said, here's some hints on what will explode in sunwear as 2004 unfolds.

WHY WHITE?

Last year, in both department stores and at the high-end of the eyewear market, white sunglasses became hot. Why might that be? The answer is clear if you check out what came down the fashion runways.

Two key themes--the mod look that nods to retro style and designers' invitation to wear white even in the cold of winter--make white sunglasses a must-have accessory among fashionistas.

Knowing that pure white sunglasses can be hard to pull off, many manufacturers are also serving up modified versions in creamy ivory hues or clear crystal, making the look wearable for a larger audience. "Within every fashion brand that we carry, there is at least one white sunglass frame to give the consumer a variety of white styles to choose from in our upcoming spring assortment," says Ed Jankowski, COO of the 36-store sunglass specialty chain Solstice, based in New York City.

RISE OF PLASTIC

	Seeing the white. Ralph Lauren style RL 885/S for Sàfilo; shirt by Chado Ralph Rucci

Another change that started last year was the downtrending of rimless shields and the upturn of oversized plastics. "We observed a strong resurgence in large plastic sunwear sales, especially during the second part of 2003," says Jankowski.

"Our older female customers have always been asking for more large plastic sunglasses, but until recently there just wasn't that much available on the market," says Arren Lien, optician and manager for Eyeglass Emporium in Miami Beach, Fla. "Now younger women are asking for them as well. Manufacturers are offering larger plastic sunglasses, so I can buy heavier into these styles this year."

The focus in sunwear has shifted from the front of the frame to the sides. "With rimless shields, all the design emphasis was at the front because of the gradient tint and the flash mirror coating on the lenses. With the renewed interest in large plastic frames, details along the temples such as studded logos, crystal accents and patterns such as plaids, put the design emphasis at the side of the frames, making the frames undeniably modern compared to the frames of the '60s they were inspired from," Jankowski says.

TECHNO ANGLES

Highlighting lens technology has been how Jen Joiner, optician for Optical Designs in Phoenix, keeps her sales from sunwear at 35 percent year-round. "My customers are willing to pay $200 and up for a good pair of polarized sunglasses. They are foregoing less expensive polarized clip-ons in favor of a second pair of prescription, polarized sunglasses because they are less likely to lose them," she says.

"Even though our sunglass sales drop by about 60 percent in winter, with all the new lens technology out there, getting people to buy sunwear during the winter has become easier," says Irene Kats, OD, of European Optical in Chicago.

Frosty details. Left: Silhouette style M8067; mink cap by Chanel; shirt by Kenneth Cole. Right: Dolce & Gabbana style DG4475 for Marcolin; coat by Carolina Herrera; necklace from Express

PUNK ROCK/BIKER CHIC

And just to prove that everything old becomes new again, punk rock and biker details such as over-the-top crystals, studs, grommets, graffiti and motorcycle-inspired flame accents are turning up on sunglasses.

Running hot and cold. Left: Converse style Slam Dunk for Rem Eyewear; vest by Chanel. Right: Coach style S316 for Marchon; jacket by Chanel

"We just got a frame in called Punk Rock two weeks ago that's splashed with Swarovski crystals and sells for over $1,000. It's doing phenomenally well," says Jankowski. While this frame currently tempts the Paris Hiltons of the world, Jankowski predicts the trend will hit the mass market in 2004.

Finally, Jankowski expects optical will keep with the retail movement for personalized products. "There's a consumer segment out there who wants to wear sunglasses they don't see everywhere. These people want to wear eyewear that's truly different because it helps them express to the world: 'I'm not like anyone else.'"