Karl Lagerfeld:
VIEW FROM THE TOP
by amy spiezio
Few stars in the fashion firmament are more readily recognizable than Karl Lagerfeld. Reviving the once-flagging Chanel, bringing glamour to Fendi, and breaking new ground in his namesake collection, the designer has become one of the reigning creative minds of the design world.
But Lagerfeld's creativity doesn't end at the edge of the runway. He is an avid photographer, publisher, and music and technology afficionado, seeking new inspiration from behind his signature black sunglasses.
As eyewear designer Eric Domege notes, "Karl Lagerfeld has the status of an icon. He is one of the only fashion designers who has kind of a rock star status."
Most recently, Lagerfeld focused his attention on a collection of ophthalmic frames and sunwear for Marchon under the Karl Lagerfeld brand. The design icon spoke with the editors of Framebuyer recently about the new collection and his inspirations.
FB: As a frequent wearer of eyewear, what unique perspective did you bring to the line?
KL: Because I love eyewear. It's for me as important, if not more important, than clothes. Me without eyewear is not me…
The iconic designer reflects in a self-portrait. Image by Karl Lagerfeld
| DNA AND BEYOND |
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| Returning to work with one of their earliest frame clients, eyewear designers Christian Roth and Eric Domege helped Karl Lagerfeld translate his fashions from the runway to the dispensary. "When [Marchon president] Al Berg contacted us over a year ago and told us about this upcoming adventure, we took that as a good omen. [At the start of our career] we had been working with Karl Lagerfeld in Paris on runway pieces. It kind of gave us a good push in those days," Domege says. Their more recent collaboration resulted in the creation of a blueprint for Lagerfeld's collection of eyewear for Marchon. The team reviewed fabrics, cuts, shapes, and details of Lagerfeld's runway collection. The greatest challenge, Domege says, is developing the first series, which sets the foundation for the collection. "It's very interesting because you can't translate word by word clothing to eyewear," Domege says. "What is a great challenge is to link sunwear and optical collections to the clothing collection and basically to create a strong DNA for the eyewear that will relate to the collection." Then the fun begins, he adds: "Once you are not concentrating on the DNA, you can explore all kinds of shapes, etc. Working on ongoing collection, it's a great adventure." |
FB: Right now in optical, retro-inspired styles are dominating the design scene. Are there any iconic eyewear looks that inspired your new line?
KL: I love eyewear "à la Ray Charles" but I am tired of retro-inspired collections, what period? If they are all mixed, that may give, for a short time, a new style.
FB: How is your world view changed by wearing sunwear?
KL: The world looks better with nicely tinted eyewear. It is flattering for the others…
FB: Is there a difference in approaching your designs for the face versus your designs for the body?
KL: The head is part of the body, the same question exists for shoes. Only handbags are detached and need our help. We "dress" our face with becoming, good for our faces, eyewear.
FB: Do you design with your sunglasses on or off…is there a difference?
KL: In fact I wear eyewear all the time, sunglasses most of the time except for sketching, reading, and writing. I don't need them, that's why I love them so much and hate to be seen without. I am only a little short-sighted and could live without glasses.
FB: Define the Karl Lagerfeld brand.
KL: If I would be pretentious, I would say: "It's very much me, it's what I like to see on men and women with style and modern attitude."
For an expanded interview with Karl Lagerfeld, visit our website, www.eyecarebusiness.com. FB
The new Karl Lagerfeld collection (shown clockwise from above): A filmstrip inspires sunwear, a sunglass with a clean contemporary look, one of the P.O.P. pieces offered
| STYLE SNAPSHOT |
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| Modern and wearable are two of the key elements of the new Karl Lagerfeld collection. Featuring sunwear and ophthalmic frames in metal and acetate, the collection distills runway looks for a larger audience. The collection is informed and inspired by some of the iconic eyewear looks of the past, but it is no vintage collection. "We wanted to get inspiration but make them really modern. It's about modernity," says Eric Domege, who collaborated with Karl Lagerfeld to translate the designer's style to the eyewear collection. Some style highlights of the collection are: Unisex: Many styles are appropriate for men or women, with some leaning more toward one gender or the other. Rxability: Many of the styles of the new collection are 6 base and ready for prescription lenses. The collection modifies oversized and wrap looks to give those with prescriptions a fashionable look. Fit sizing: The collection is not oversized, so it fits many faces. Coloration: Black and tortoise are the base of the collection. "We wanted to create a signature black for Karl Lagerfeld. It's Karl Black…a black laminated with a very dark gun acetate. It's not just a black acetate, there's something extra," Domege says. Double laminates contrast colors inside and out. It's gives a great color spectrum to the collection without being too much for the face. Motifs: The signature fashion look of the collection has a filmstrip effect on the temples. The range of logos reflect Lagerfeld's design sensibility. |
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