Focus on Fundamentals

When it comes to the physical materials that make up an eyewear frame, there is the common and classic—materials such as acetate, stainless steel, titanium, and the unexpected leather, horn, and ocean plastic. Knowing the type of material a frame is made of and the characteristics of each material ensures that frames are matched with the wearer and handled with the correct care. Using your knowledge of a frame’s material can help with the storytelling of the frame during the client’s selection process, creating a more compelling connection to the eyewear.

Plastics

Describing a frame as plastic is simplistic and all-encompassing. But the different varieties of plastics are plentiful, and each type has special attributes with advantages and disadvantages.

• Cellulose Acetate: More commonly referred to as acetate, it is a hypoallergenic, nonpetroleum, plant-based plastic made from natural cotton and wood fibers. It is strong, lightweight, and flexible; acetate frames can easily be adjusted for a comfortable fit. Cellulose acetate is available in an endless variety of colors, patterns, and textures. 

• Zyl: A common term used for cellulose acetate within the eyewear industry.

• TR-90: A type of thermoplastic material, resistant to cold and heat, that is flexible, lightweight, and durable. TR-90 frames can bend under pressure and are often used in sports and active eyewear because they can withstand impact and stress.

• TR-55: Another type of thermoplastic.

• Nylon: Commonly used for athletic wrap styles because it is easily molded. Lightweight and flexible, nylon frames are durable and impact resistant, known for strength and resilience. Over time, nylon frames can become brittle with age, causing them to crack.

• Optyl: A trademarked plastic material currently owned and produced by Safilo. It is a heat-resistant plastic that creates a superior, resin-like surface finish that is stronger than cellulose acetate. It’s lightweight, flexible, adjusts easily, and retains its shape. Optyl is hypoallergenic and corrosion-resistant to sweat and cosmetics.

• Polymer/Polyamide: A family of synthetic polymers that includes materials like Grilamid and Ultem. These plastics are lightweight, flexible, and impact resistant. Polymer can also be naturally derived from castor oil beans. Polymer, both natural and synthetic, is a common plastic used for 3D- printed frames.

• io-Based Plastics: Plastics derived from renewable sources like cornstarch, sugarcane, or castor beans. Bio-based plastics are lightweight, easily adjustable, and biodegradable or compostable, reducing their environmental impact.

Metals

Metal frames typically offer a lighter, sleeker silhouette and a greater adjustability and have a signature attribute of nose pads. The physical differences of a metal frame lie within the specific type of metal composition. 

• Titanium: The lightest-weight and strongest material. Titanium can withstand bending and stress without breaking or deforming easily. Adjustments can be difficult, but the results last longer. It’s hypoallergenic, rarely causing skin reactions, so it’s the best choice for people with metal allergies or sensitivities. 

• Memory Metal: A titanium alloy composed of roughly 50% titanium and 50% nickel. Typically, memory metal makes up the bridge and temple portion of the frame. Memory metal is extremely flexible and can be dramatically twisted or excessively bent and still return to the original shape.

• Aluminum: Lightweight and adjustable, aluminum is a recyclable and inexpensive material. Aluminum frames can be easily adjusted and offer nose pads for added customization, although they can be less inclined to keep their shape due to the metal’s softer makeup. Aluminum frames are hypoallergenic, although some clients can be sensitive to the metal if it comes in contact with their skin. 

• Stainless Steel: Stainless steel as well as surgical steel are lightweight and have minimal toxicity (if nickel-free). Stainless steel is strong and resistant to deformation, while offering easy adjustability across the whole frame body, including adjustable nose pads. It’s a commonly used frame material and less expensive than titanium while still offering resistance to corrosion, abrasion, and heat. 

More Materials

• Wood: Wood is environmentally friendly and biodegradable. Oak, walnut, and wood fiber (sawdust with resins) material can be used to make up the full frame silhouette or accent temples. 

• Natural Fibers: Flax, hemp, and cork are sustainable and renewable materials that are lightweight and water resistant. These frames offer a distinctive and natural color and texture.

• Bamboo: Lightweight, strong, and resistant to scratching. Bamboo is sustainable and biodegradable, with a distinctive grain pattern. 

• Carbon Fiber: Offers a unique strength-to-weight ratio. Carbon fiber frames are lightweight, strong, and durable, but offer very limited adjustability. 

• Horn: Made from animal horn, usually buffalo or ox. The material is lightweight and does not retain heat. Horn is luxurious—often custom-made with one-of-a-kind patterns for a unique appearance. 

• Recycled Materials: Ocean plastic is reclaimed plastic to create frames, which helps clean up the oceans by repurposing the found plastic garbage into functional eyeglass frames.