New Dispenser/{ feature: FRAME FITTING }
From the Field
Top tips from frame fitting and dispensing pros
BY KARLEN MCLEAN

We asked some veteran opticians with decades of hands-on experience for some of their fundamental fitting tips.
“The translation is this: If the frame is sitting too high (or up) on the right, that means the right temple needs to come up (up with up),” she says. “If the frame is sitting so that the right lens is closer to the cheek than the left lens, that means the right temple needs to come in (in with in). It was always my easy way to remember which way I had to move the temple to adjust for whatever problem the patient might be experiencing.”
“Gooseneck pad arms that aren’t properly adjusted may cause seg heights to be about 1mm lower than measured, throwing off the lens power,” she says. “To adjust gooseneck pad arms, bend the pad box straight up (at the top of the arm), then move up so the pad arm is parallel to the frame. It’s also a perfect way to lower the seg when a patient is complaining it’s too high.”
A STUDENT TALKS FRAMES
Amanda Klasen, an opticianry student at Benjamin Franklin Institute of Technology in Cambridge, MA, plans to graduate in May 2016. She’s already learned a lot, including how to fit frames. Here are her top 10 frame-fitting pointers.
1. Select a frame that’s going to work well for the patient’s taste and their prescription needs. Consider what kind of lenses will be going into the frame, and guide them toward a frame that will not need excessive adjusting to fit them well.
2. Look at how the frame front meets the brow line. It should complement the brow line, not compete with or hide it.
3. Be sure the bridge suits the nose and will set comfortably on the face. The patient should feel as if the bridge were made just for their face. A keyhole bridge can sometimes be best for a prominent nose, while those with a more delicate shape may look better in something straighter or with a more subtle curve.
4. No matter what’s chosen, the frame’s weight should be distributed evenly over the face.
5. Follow the curve behind the ear to fit the temple. The ear bends should rest against the occipital bone, directly behind the ear, but not pressing so hard as to be uncomfortable.
6. People who are accustomed to wearing glasses are used to a fair amount of pressure there, while it might feel strange to those wearing glasses for the first time. The ear bend should not rest against the soft, fleshy spot behind the ear.
7. When asking a patient to look down and shake their head, the glasses should stay in place.
8. There may be an adjustment needed to shorten overall temple length. Children’s metal frames often have a removable temple bend that allows the entire temple to be shortened. If it’s a plastic frame, there’s little that can be done to alter temple length, so be sure it’s a good fit to start.
9. When using a heater to adjust plastic frames, it’s generally best to remove lenses before adjusting the frame to be sure the lenses aren’t damaged.
10. The key to adjusting plastic frames is to go slowly, working a small amount of change at a time. Making big adjustments all at once can cause the frame material to become brittle.
HOW TO SAY NO
“It’s OK to tell patients the frame they love is not the best choice for them,” explains Roxanne Harless, ABOC, NCLC, dispensing optician at Andersen Eye Associates in Saginaw, MI. “A little education to the consumer can go a long way. You’re the expert, so don’t be afraid to use your knowledge.”